retinol

Rationale Rejuvenating Serum

I’m one week into my Rationale skin trial and have to say that I am loving the feel and smell of the rejuvenating serum. This lightweight liquid is applied after the niacinamide serum to help give your skin an antioxidant boost which is just what aged or damaged skin needs to keep it in top condition.  So, what is in this little pot of goodness that smells like freshly squeezed juice?

20% Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate – This fat soluble version of vitamin C is more stable than many other commonly used versions which means that you are likely to see the benefits on your skin! Vitamin C is a natural brightening active, anti-oxidant and moisturising active.  On top of that it doesn’t require a low pH to stabilise it so it doesn’t come with the usual sting factor!

Tocotrienol –  This natural variant of the popular Vitamin E (tocopherol) packs a higher antioxidant potential than it’s brother and as such is able to protect the skin from free radicals to a much higher degree.

Ubiquinone – This co-enzyme helps to boost cell metabolism therefore playing a part in keeping the skin fresh, bright and youthful.

Tocopheryl Retinoate – Retinol is widely known for its ability to help treat acne  but it is its ability to  boost skin cell turn-over that makes it the darling of the dermatology world.  However, Retinol does have some problems namely its  potential to irritate,  UV instability and love of degrading in the presence of air. Therefore many of the retinol containing products on the market probably don’t contain much retinol by the time you get stuck into it.  However, Tocopheryl Retinoate is one retinoid that looks set to change all of that!  This hybrid of tocopherol and retinoic acid is alleged to absorb better, have a lower irritation potential […]

Cheap as chips Anti-Ageing

£2.50 ish (or around $4 ish Australian) doesn’t always get you much when it comes to anti-ageing products but we may be onto something here…..

Lidl, the cut-price supermarket chain set up to rival brother Aldi is gearing up to take the bottom end of the anti-ageing market by storm with its potent formulations and lightweight textures. I picked up this little gem today and thought I’d do some investigationing to see what makes it tick.

And the ingredients are……

Aqua – Water

Glycerine – A natural humectant that keeps the skin soft and supple by binding moisture to it like a sponge and hydrating the skin.

Octocrylene – An ingredient that is usually used to stabilise UV filter but also has a low SPF on its own.

Oleyl Erucate  – A natural emollient that creates a  luxurious and slow spreading feel on the skin making the product feel richer.

Pentylene Glycol –  Another humectant with slightly higher water binding power than glycerine. Not usually naturally derived.

Cetearyl Alcohol – A thickener and stabiliser for the emulsion helping to hold it together as well as giving it a whiter look.

Dicaprylyl Ether  – Another natural emollient that gives a light and silky feel rather like that usually achieved with silicone.

Isopropyl Palmitate – Natural light emollient and solubiliser for some active ingredients.

Tocopherol Acetate – Vitamin E for use as an antioxidant and also as a skin conditioning active.

Theobroma Cacao Butter – Cocoa butter to give the cream a thick, rich consistency while also bringing trace vitamins and fatty acids for conditioning.

Next we get into the smaller ingredients. The more interesting of these are:

Panthenol, Retinyl Palmitate, Ceramide 2 – Anti-ageing actives to help with skin conditioning, resurfacing and re-building.

Arachis Hypogaea Oil – This is PEANUT oil which is often used as a speciality emollient […]

Talking of Evidence: Proctor and Gamble Get Serious with Pro X

I have had my head in clinical papers all day as I try to work out whether to get all excited about a couple of new product launches that are making headlines at the moment. One is from Nu Skin who’s new and improved range talks about how it works on gene expression  to reduce the signs of ageing and secondly there is the new range from Proctor and Gamble.  I am going to tackle the Nu Skin research later this week but for now, what is going down at P&G?

Proctor and Gamble have just launched Pro X with the tag-line “Potent. Proven. Professional”  that has been proven to work as well as Tretinoin ( a brand name for a vitamin A derivative) for improving the appearance of facial wrinkles.  One product is a cosmetic, the other a prescription medicine.

So I guess it would be rude not to have a better look (picture sourced from Media Post Publications)

Potent.

Well it’s a great word but what does that mean in the skin care sense?  For an ingredient to be potent in the formulation it would have to be used at concentrations high enough to give a measured effect.   It is normal  for  ingredient manufacturers to test their actives in laboratory trials on fake skin or other media to see if they have an effect – in vitro testing.  They may even carry out panel testing (in-vivo) to see if there is a visible effect with the ingredient.  Companies such as Proctor and Gamble would use this data to help select ingredients. They would probably then carry out their own tests to make sure it does what it says it does as nobody’s data is as good as your own 🙂

The […]

Antioxidants – Naturally.

One of the best things about Christmas in Australia is the fruit. Our Mango’s are ripe, Cherries are in season and blueberries  are just brilliant and to top it all,  this fruit abundance can do wonders for your skin!

If, like me, you can’t resist the christmas “Choc-tivities” then your body may well start crying out for a detox. Make sure you pick and mix some of these berry beauties to stave off the post-Christmas stodge.

Blueberries.

Rich source of antioxidants which can help the body to fight free radicals. Free radical’s can damage cells, leading to premature ageing.
High in Vitamins C and E (which also have antioxidant properties) these vitamins are both essential for good skin health.  Deficiency of Vitamin C lead to poor collagen quality and gum problems while Vitamin E is essential for maintaining a strong skin barrier and can help with wound healing.

Cherries

Cherries can help you to loose weight!  Well,  they won’t dissolve fat or anything but they are low in calories and contain no fat which makes them perfect for those wishing to indulge in some guilt-free munchies.
They can help reduce inflammation due to them containing  the flavanols cyanidin and quercetin.  These powerful antioxidant chemicals help to mop up rogue free radical’s which occur as a consequence of cellular ageing, pollution, UV exposure or dietary toxins.   When skin cells are stressed they can flare up so it makes sense that reducing the causes of the inflammation leads to skin that is perfectly chilled out and peachy!

Blackberries.

Essential Fatty Acids. OK, so you expect fruits to contain vitamins and antioxidants but fatty acids?  Blackberries are a great source of the EFA Alpha Linolenic Acid  – one of the Omega Three types making Blackberries a great choice for Vegans and those who […]

Acne – its just not fair!

OK, so I am 35 (ouch) and have suffered from acne since I was 11. That is just plain mean! I eat my fruit and veg (sometimes), go to bed early (in the morning) exercise regularly (that’s true) and have a “glass half full” attitude to life but that doesn’t seem to help.  My skin is still intent on making me feel sad 🙁 but I will not give in. I am just going to ignor it!

Let me tell you a little story…

As soon as puberty started knocking on my door the spots started. I shouldn’t have been that surprised as my parents had had a few spots in their time but I was to go where none of our family had gone before – into the purple zone.  Having suffered from eczema since birth I was no stranger to skin ache and took the first few spots in my stride. In fact I quite enjoyed popping them (and still do).

Anyway, it was when I was about 14 that things went pretty badly downhill.  I started to get some awful pimples that just wouldn’t go away. My mum took me along to my GP for some therapy!

I was put on antibiotics and things got better. For a while….

After a year or so my spots started to come back and I was put on the combined oral contraceptive pill alongside my antibiotics (the dose of which was increased).

And things got better again. For a while….

Then when I was 17 things crashed. My liver started to fail and I got a wicked orange tan because of the build up of bile in my system. I felt terrible and looked like the Tango woman.  I only had […]